omg, the waves at bowls were perfect yesterday afternoon! kind of timed the crowds right. while all the boys were coming in for lunch, we went out to surf. check out Aoi on a super perfect right!!!
i was following him on this wave and watched him do a super nice backside off the lip. i was so stoked to see this kid surfing better and better each week.
then we went left too. a couple of week ago, i told Aoi “hey, if you ever get the chance to get barreled, just pull in. just try! yeah, you won’t make a lot in the beginning, but once you figure it out, you will become a super good barrel rider.”
i was watching him pull in all day long. when we paddled in, i told him, “good job boy, just keep on trying and never give up. one day, you will get the super barrel of your life and it’s going to feel so good!” i could tell he was feeling good just thinking about it. haha.
every week Aoi’s going higher and higher on the wave.
and pushing harder and harder each turn. so stoked to see this cool kid so stoked on surfing. and it’s so rewarding to see him improving so fast!
of course had to get a few for myself. check out Aoi watching me having fun! haha.
so glad to be back to beautiful hawaii. and so glad to be surfing again. took 8 days off on my last trip so have to make up for that. so far, so good!
a couple nights ago, i went out for a couple beers with my friends Carter and Russ. before we left home, we said “ok, just 2 beers and we go home before 10pm.” i said “yeah, that’s what we always say.” haha. we ended up having 2, then 2 more, than 3 more. next thing you know, it was 1am and we were having the times of our lives. laughing and laughing. we bumped into a father and son local surfer combo. Byron has been surfing bowls for 40 years and his son Alika just started a few years ago. we had an awesome talk out of the water about surfing roots, localism, family, tourism, and life. now when i surf with these guys, i can really enjoy the waves together because i know them 100x better than before. cool night boys! see you all in the water!
