i really was planning to go to okinawa on that last trip but changed the plan because of the typhoon. then i thought for a second “um, should i go to shikoku?” but barrels weren’t on my bucket list so i decided to go to mexico to hunt tuna instead. then i talk to Matchi yesterday and he said it was the 10 year swell over there! omg! shock! after i saw this photo, i really wished there were two of me.
late in the night or should i say early in the morning, i was walking my friends back to their hotel. why? because i couldn’t drive due to Mr. Don Julio. walking over the bridge separating waikiki to ala moana. kind of spooky. felt like it was more dangerous than all the places i walked around in cuba.
and looking at all the rubbish in the water, i thought i was really in a third world country.
congratulations to Billy Kemper from maui for winning the big wave contest yesterday. it was freaking amazing to watch.
the final results. all the best watermen in the world.
i was craving fondue last night so went to hale vietnam. omg, i forgot how good it was! i just love it!
then the rice and raw egg at the end, that is what you call a “happy ending.”
so stoked to see my gardenia and avocado trees looking so green and healthy.
the waves dropped in the evening and pipeline was packed! a hundred guys? very dangerous as i heard a local pro surfer is now in critical condition at the hospital from hitting the reef yesterday. hope he recovers.
thank you Inada-san for the cool karate shirt from Kyokushinkaikan. i love it!
and thank you Kami-san for the jaga pokkuru! itadakimasu!
i’ve been hanging on to this kayak for a while. it’s worth a lot of money but i don’t need it anymore. $200 and it’s yours. it will make a great christmas present for yourself. let me know.
