“it’s starting to look a lot like christmas, every where i go!” do you know that christmas song? well, i was singing that song the other night pulling into my parking stall. i love christmas and it’s the happiest holiday season of the year in hawaii!
had a blast with Yumi-chan today again. it was like another day of bootcamp. i’m like a sergeant yelling at my solider.
than after we surfed, we paddled out to the red buoy, i flipped Yumi-chan off her board, and told her to swim to the beach. i told her, “if you panic, you will die. if you be calm, you will survive.” she survived another day of my boot camp and you should see how much she’s improved.
great job Yumi-chan. i hope you can apply all the things you learned while surfing to your daily life. i’m so proud of you.
i was driving on the road and seen this cool ford bronco. it’s like one of my dream cars!
i pull to the side to ask the owner “hey, is it for sale?” then come to find out, it’s one of my good friends!
the classic 1976 ford bronco that is not for sale. but if it is, i will be the first person in line to buy it.
yesterday, pro surfer Evan Geiselman did what he normally does. pulled into this barrel at pipeline. but something was wrong this time. he didn’t resurface for 3 consecutive waves. a bodyboarder swam to him and grabbed his lifeless body. all purple, eyes rolled back, and foaming from the mouth. everybody thought he was dead.
pro bodyboarder Andre Botha didn’t let him go even after getting pounded wave after wave. he kept Evan’s head above water and gave him some CPR rescue breaths. he was taken to the hospital in critical condition.
today, this surfer is alive and a very lucky man. surfer saving a surfer. both strong, both brave, and both respected. it’s stories like this that make every surfer in the world respect the ocean and others. you just never know when it’s your time and you just never know if an angel will be nearby to save your precious life. in this case, a very happy ending.
wanted to credit HawaiiNewsNow because i got these photos off their website.
