this morning started off so dam good! pulled up to the beach with Kameyama-san and was greeted with the beautiful double rainbow!
we had a great surf session. only a couple surfers out and we got pretty much any wave we wanted. Kameyama-san surfed super good! then since we had the whole day, we decided to go circle the island. first it was lunch at Down to Earth, then headed for a snow puff desert at waialua.
then went to check out haleiwa. omg, the waves were so good! some 6′ sets and perfect. only a few guys out too.
this tourist from chicago flew his drone over the big surf. he was freaking out at the footage.
haleiwa doesn’t get much better than this. nice 4-6′, super long, and only 6 surfers out. lucky timing.
and more lucky timing. private beach with turtles basking in the sun. on the drive back, i found out Kameyama-san is a grandmother! omg! i though she was way younger than me!!! and to top it off, she’s here to run the marathon! amazing!
then went to watch the pipeline masters. omg, off the wall was crazy going off! one gem per hour but if you’re on it, it could be the wave of your life.
so stoked to see how far surfing has come. people from all over the world coming to this special beach called pipeline. then we went to Romy’s for some shrimp, then drove around the island coming back to town. what a lovely day with a lovely person!
and want to congratulate Toda-san for taking this amazing photo of Mt. Fuji. such beautiful colors! good job Toda-san and thank you for making my day with the most magical mountain in the world. i love it!
