i tell Aoi last night “hey, we’re going to surf pipeline tomorrow morning!” right there, i knew he wouldn’t have a good night sleep. anybody’s first time surfing real north shore is nerve racking. so when i pick him up early this morning, i ask him “did you have a good sleep?” he said “not really.” haha.
for the long drive out, i kept on explaining to Aoi about pipeline. i told him it was really small because i really thought it was really small. but right when we got to the beach, the waves started to come up! i tell him “let’s go out!” he says “um, i think i want to watch it more.” i told him “no, we go now! it’s empty!”
look how nervous he was! haha. that’s exactly how i looked before i surfed pipeline for the first time. and i was 17 years old. Aoi is only 13.
this is Aoi’s first ever wave at pipeline! he surfed it so good! we surfed for 2.5 hours and he caught 8 waves. that’s a huge accomplishment! i was so proud of him!
then i took him to the billabong house for a shower. i told him “this is where photographers, executives, CEO’s, media, and world champions hang out.”
then 2x world champion shark attack victim Mick Fanning walks by. i ask Mick “hey mate, the kid wants a photo with you.” Aoi was stoked to meet the most famous surfer in the world. lucky kid.
then we ate lunch and dessert in haleiwa. then once we headed back to town, Aoi fell asleep in 30 seconds. i was watching him sleep and laughing so hard. he must have been so nervous and once he overcame the most ultimate fear of surfing pipeline, he just crashed down. i pulled up to his house 45 minutes later and had to wake him up. haha.
then i climbed Aoi’s coconut tree and grabbed 2 coconuts. one young, and one old.
right when i got home, i cut both open! i used my coconut opening knowledge i learned in the philippines.
even Mateus loved it! he was drinking a lot!
then i opened the young one and ate it with a spoon. my favorite!
then i opened the older one and peeled off the thick chunks of coconut. ate some and will use the rest for some chocolate/coconut cookies? sounds so good!
anyway, had a very happy day today. tomorrow another long and happy day at the beach! good night.
