what is a normal day for me? well, it started off with two 2 hour back to back sessions. i was in the water from 8am to 12pm. just loving every hour and every minute. then went down to install the seats in Mayuki. sweating in the hot sun but getting the job done. came out perfect. then went to drink some kawa and eat some fresh fish. anyway, 2 sessions and here is one. the other one coming later.
today’s weather was awesome! some rare west winds made the clouds all funky. and when the sun came out, it was like a postcard! we were so happy!
Mamiko-san is determined to improve on her surfing. today was the best day to improve because of the challenging conditions. if you can surf well today, you can surf well any day.
so stoked to see people so happy when surfing. and so stoked to be able to see this every single day!
always love the diamond head shot!
thank you Mamiko-san for the wonderful morning of surfing. you did great! keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
oh, forgot to add in my day that i woke up extra early and worked on the seats in my garage. it was dark, i was loud, but hey, got to do what you have to do. i’m sure i woke up my neighbors at 6:30am on this saturday morning. haha. but jumping in the ocean right after that felt so good!
