Fresh and Simple: Hawaii Second Morning

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since my days are so long and filled with so much excitement, i divide just the morning into 3 parts. dawn patrol, which is before sunrise. next is early morning, which is about 7 or 8am. then second morning which is 9 or 10am. yesterday, i had all 3 parts. dawn patrol in my garage, early morning with Mamiko-san, and second morning with Hikaru-san.
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it felt like summer yesterday! the water and air were very warm. so warm that i was sweating.
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surfing with Hikaru-san is fun. just enjoying the waves and catching up on our lives. it’s only been a few months since i seen her, but lots happened since.
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and watching her ride waves smiling makes me happy. this is what surfing is all about.
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perfect surfing girl! so stoked to see the improvements.
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and when there are more improvements, there are bigger smiles.
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thank you Hikaru-san for the great second morning session and snacks that followed!
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want to also thank Yuko-chan for catching the Ladyfish. and thank you to Paul for taking the time to clean the fish and prepare fishcake. and of course, freshly squeezed Kawa on the side. it was awesome!
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from the sea, to my mouth. this is the life i love to live. fresh and simple. itadakimasu!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide