when i was a young surfer, my dream was to chase contests. now that i’m older, my dream is to chase waves. i’ve been to some of the remote places in the world for the past 20 years and every time i pull up to a spot like this, i feel like a little kid looking at at new roller coaster ride. my heart is pumping and my adrenaline is racing towards the sky. i grab my board, i jump into the water, and once i catch my first wave, i feel like i’m at a place where i’m supposed to be. SURFERS PARADISE.
photo by me at some empty lineup somewhere in this world. wish you were there.
