when i saw the forecast a few days ago, i new there will be waves on the south shore. i tracked hundreds of typhoons throughout the past 24 years in japan so i knew this rare one would bring hawaii some good waves. how good?
better than good. it was epic! i couldn’t believe how good yesterday and today was. the first south swell of the year so 2016 is getting off to a great start.
then when i got outside in the ocean, it was even better than i thought. rock pile lefts was like “impossibles” in indonesia. super glassy and perfect long lefts! everybody was stoked!
had a great time with Ayumi-san. i took her straight outside to the big waves. she did great!
happy rides equals happy smiles.
i caught a few awesome waves too. the conditions were perfect! i thought i was surfing in indonesia!
thank you Ayumi-san for the wonderful big wave surf session! you did great!
then had a combo poke bowl for lunch. the best!
then went to check out diamond head. it was going off!!! super perfect and very long rides. all us surfers are very very happy! want to thank Mr. Clouds for covering the blue sky this morning. that prevented the junky onshore winds. it turned out to be a glassy day all day long! so stoked! good night.
