it’s been a while since we had clouds. i was happy because it kept my super burnt body cool all day. still warm, but very cool too. dawn patrol with Mana-san yesterday!
right when we got out, a perfect right hander came straight to us. i yelled “go” and we both rode this amazing wave.
then Mana-san went for the spin!
nice technique!
smooth and fast.
the happy ending!
i got my few shares of spray on my head. it felt so great! i still can’t believe it’s january and the waves are this good!
Mana-san caught over 30 waves again. then she caught more in the afternoon so total for 2 days was about 60 waves ridden. Mana means “power” in hawaiian and that’s what this girl is!
seen a school of omilu’s swimming right under us.
at the end of the session, we were all smiles because we had the rest of the day ahead.
went to check out the temple and pray for peace and happiness.
then went for lunch. my favorite panang curry with garlic chicken again!
then took the full panorama up at tantalus. it was so beautiful up there!
then drove to sandy beach and was surprised how good the waves were! off shore and the north swell building.
i got out there and my friends told me “wow, you came at the perfect time!” that’s always nice to hear.
then had a blast in the barrels at the shore break.
then ended the awesome day with a nice waiola shave ice.
more and more stories ahead. happy hawaiian days continue!
