good evening. wow!!! how were the waves today? epic!!! i drove all around this morning checking everywhere. everywhere was going off so it was hard to choose a spot…
diamond head was as good as it gets. 4′ with perfect conditions at cliffs, right hands, and light house…. sheet glass conditions…
so i’m sitting on the top of diamond head looking everywhere. seen a peak off in the distance peeling perfect like a right point. drove down there, ran down the hill, and surfed that place pretty dam good. solid 4′ with sheet glass conditions. the water was crystal clear, the skies were blue, and everybody looked stoked. i’m glad i didn’t surf the past 3 days because i felt super hungry for waves today. it felt unreal riding good waves….
**nobody predicted this swell today so i’m going ahead and posting a HIGH SURF ADVISORY for the south shores of all islands. haha.. how’s me, i make like i’m guy hagi.. haha… it’s been a long time since i seen the waves come up right in front of my eyes…. tomorrow same thing, go-naminori….[:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:][:?????$B!x(B???:]
**and last, i finally got a chance to film swimming with the dolphins. i was lucky enough to have my camera so i took this video clip. so to all my friends who didn’t believe me all these years. BELIEVE… i do this all the time and that’s the reason why i’m such a happy guy…. enjoy…
