left my house at 5:15am in the dark. went to pick up Shiba-san and headed out to the gloomy north shore. we checked haleiwa first and it was super junky. nobody out so we decided to look somewhere else. this was pipeline and not any better. so we headed back to haleiwa.
then when we got back, it seemed like a totally different day! the winds shifted side off shore and the waves cleaned up a lot. super good rights and only 2 guys out.
we scored! from 7:30-9:30am the waves were so good! had a great session and stoked to see Shiba-san catch his first north shore wave. i got 2 super good barrels and many many waves.
then the billabong team rider kids came out for their boot camp. it was like ants on cookies.
Rainos Hayes coaching the kids carefully and grooming them into becoming world champions.
had the camera crew, pro surfers, coaches, and bodyguards. a huge support group for the billabong kids.
got a photo with Shiba-san and 1999 world champion Mark Occhilupo. lucky day for this japanese surfer getting a photo with such a legend surfer.
then we went to eat at my favorite places. fried chicken and snow puffs.
eating local surfer style. right after this, we went back to check haleiwa and all the billabong kids were gone! nobody out so we went for round 2! lucky again!
then flew back to town and took a drive by diamond head. junky waves with only 2 guys out. haleiwa was probably the best spot on the island today. good call!
then went shopping to buy supplies for Mayuki. $289.99 a can? omg, and i need 3 of these cans!!!
add everything else in and i could go on a surf trip!!! haha. still have much more supplies to buy tomorrow so will be running around town getting things done. good night.
