omg, Asayama-san went big yesterday!!! before we paddled out, i told him “ok, i’m going to give you a smaller board today. just remember to look forward and bend your knees. have confidence in yourself and everything will be alright.”
i see a big set coming, i say “turn around, relax, and GO!” Asayama-san paddled hard, took off, stood up, and caught the biggest wave of his life! i was riding on the side yelling “yeah!!! yeah!!!” i could see the stoke in his eyes! imagine falling from the sky heading into knee high deep reef? after this wave, he said “surfing is so fun!!!”
it’s crazy how everybody has their own style. no two styles are alike, but when i’m surfing with Asayama-san, his style reminds me of someone. do you know who? yes, Inaida-san! omg, their surfing style is so similar! even my friend out there told me “wow, his surfing looks exactly like Inaida-san’s.” so true.
after 10 waves, we called it a day. went shopping, hung out, talked story, and had lots of laughs.
i still can’t believe this man is 67 years old. it totally freaks me out to think i’m having him go on such big waves. but Asayama-san just loves it. after the first shocking day in hawaii, he wanted to go back to japan. today i asked him again “do you want to go back to japan?” he said “NO!” haha. i think he’s enjoying the hawaiian surfers lifestyle.
check out my secret turtle cleaning station. the turtles just hang out and let the fish clean them up. it’s pretty cool watching this.
i’d say this is only about 6 meters deep so if you can dive down, you can watch this front row like how i always do.
would you spear these delicious koles off the turtles back? better not miss because if you hit the turtle, you will go to jail for a long time. so better not try it.
and you don’t have to spear the koles because there are lots of mu’s. i could spear these with a chopstick if i had one. one of the best tasting fish in the ocean. on my next day off, i’m going to get me some dinner.
