wow, i’ve been waiting for a morning like this. for the past week, i’ve been telling Asayama-san, “when the best morning comes, let’s go dawn patrol!” today was the day! no wind so perfect glassy conditions, hazy sky so orange sunrise, and perfect shoulder high waves! i could tell Asayama-san was excited because he was paddling out too fast again. haha. i had to slow him down.
first wave of his dawn patrol surf career! it was super perfection! and with the sun rising over diamond head, it was so beautiful.
only 6:45am and super stoked!
then i seen the orange sun finally come up. when we where waiting at the lineup, you couldn’t see it because trump tower was blocking it. i told Asayama-san, “ok, next wave, stand up, turn right and you will see the big orange sunrise.” as soon as the wave took him inside past trump tower, the sun shined on his face. i was on the side watching him surf the the biggest smile ever. when he paddled out, he said “this is amazing!”
then he took a rest out in the ocean. it was so calm and peaceful. the best morning session in a very long time.
Asayama-san’s a local already. everybody knows him in the lineup. for the past 7 days, i didn’t see any surfer older than him. so i told him “doesn’t it feel great to be the oldest surfer out here and riding these beautiful waves?” he said “YES, IT DOES!”
one last wave of the day. we paddled in and it was still 7:30am. a great way to start off the beautiful day!
then we went for a local breakfast because we were so hungry. it was still 8am and we were totally happy and energetic.
look at our breakfast! it was so good! then i dropped off Asayama-san, he went to yoga, to watch the sunset, ate dinner, and we will surf again tomorrow morning. i have a feeling it’s going to be good again!
