another day of anpanman! haha.
every year another high rise luxury condo pops up. in 10 years, ala moana will be looking like tokyo. scary.
morning surf was fun, clean, and crowded. then the strong onshore winds came and everyone came in. i was waiting and waiting for the perfect timing. as soon as i knew the winds will back off, i headed out to the sea.
and yes, it was absolutely perfect! just like indonesia conditions. hot, no wind, super glassy, and nobody out.
so i took out my brand new board and caught some brand new waves. omg, the perfect afternoon session.
then the army started coming out. one by one, two by two, and group by group. it got really crowded but you know what? i was already done! the perfect timing again!
on the way in watched the kids practice sailing. this is where it starts.
been so comfortable underwater. will be somewhere on the other side of the world next week doing this over and over. hopefully coming up with a huge fish, then getting a barrel on one of the most perfect waves in the world.
another perfect way to end the day. driving home with the biggest smile on my face. yeah!
