wow, Fujimoto-san surfed so good yesterday afternoon! just perfect rides on some pretty big waves. look how beautiful this photo is! perfect surfing on a perfect wave. i love it!
when Fujimoto-san was paddling out, he told me that he wanted to surf bigger waves than last time. and last time was pretty big. so we just waiting on the outside for the big ones. and when it came, we were on it!
thank you Fujimoto-san for the wonderful surf session. and thank you for sharing your dreams with me. i’m sure they will all come true. in other words, see you in hawaii everyday in 30 years!
so stoked to see Miwa-san, Kiki, and Keith all hanging out in taiwan. seeing photos like this makes me really happy to see our international surfing world getting stronger and stronger. i love it!
last, Warren Buffet owns a lot of shares in Coke. so when the activists ask him about why he supports Coke knowing how bad sugar affects a persons body, his answer is something like this: “i drink 6 cokes a day and coke makes me happy.” gosh, i wish i had my jack and coke and could give Mr. Buffet a cheers!!! haha.
