Wipeout Paddleboading

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paddle board looks so dam easy. i’ve been surfing my whole life and i just can’t seem to get it right. my paddle from makapuu to waikiki was pretty funny. i flipped over so many times, even laughing at myself. haven’t tried it out since so thought i’d give it a try again because the Molokai channel is looking very tempting. started off good, then when i tried to catch some waves, things turned bad.
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these paddle boards are so narrow so pretty unstable. easy to flip over and that’s what i did even in the calm seas. the Molokai channel is super rough and unforgiving so mistakes like this can cost me my life.
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i lost my board 3x and had to swim very far after it. one part of me wants to practice once more, but another part of me just wants to charge it. it’s the challenge that makes me want to do this. if it was so easy, i wouldn’t even waste my time doing it. looking forward to one of my most challenging dreams coming true.
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was watching the surf at bowls yesterday. seen Chifumi-san on some really good smooth ones.
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and seen the little princess on her first ever bowls waves. she loved it!
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went shopping around town in the afternoon and forgot to bring a bag. so i carried diving fins, a flashlight, bread, and a sandwich on this bike riding it back home. i looked like a homeless pushing a shopping cart. it was crazy, but i managed to get home without losing anything.
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omg, the Kool and the Gang concert was freaking amazing! the beers and jack/cokes were going down way to easy. each song, a vivid memory would come back in my mind. i closed my eyes and enjoyed the memory as it was happing right there. it’s amazing how music can make you so happy.
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want to thank my friends for sharing the disco moment with me. Kazu-san, Megu-san, and Maki-san. i had an awesome time guys. needed the positive vibe, and needed the childhood memories. let’s do it again!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide