Suzuki-san only surfed for 3 years, only rode a wave for a couple seconds, and surfed nothing over chest high. well, everything changed! yesterday afternoon was our second training session. we went bigger and better. long 30 second rides and overhead surf. it was amazing to see his level rise so fast.
every time Suzui-san paddled back out, he would have the biggest smile on his face. i told him “up until now, you were surfing and having fun. but from now on, you will have a lot more fun, and your life will never be the same. this is surfing.”
and this is what you call “pure stoke!” so happy and so excited!
perfect surfing Suzuki-san!
and look what we seen pop up right next to us. even the turtles were enjoying the new south swell!
shaka from hawaii!
thank you Suzuki-san for the wonderful day and delicious unagi pie!
and omg, did you hit the reef?
