had an awesome time with Ueno-san this morning. the waves were pretty big and he was a little nervous in the beginning. but after a few sets, the nerves settled down and Ueno-san caught some amazing waves!
just another day of pushing another surfers limits. strong ground south swell with lots of power. so when you put the rail in the wave, you will fly like this! and yes, it feels so good!
had some pretty big sets Ueno-san had to duck under. one of my friends told me that i was crazy to bring Ueno-san out today. but i told him, “this is how you learn. this is hands on experience. the best way to learn. and when he goes back to japan, he’s going to have 10x more confidence.”
another day, another mountain climbed. this is a real surfer.
thank you Ueno-san for the snacks. i ate it all already. haha.
seen this yesterday.
a very expensive catamaran getting stuck on the reef. maybe he didn’t take his captains license? yes, you’re supposed to stay on the left side of that red pole. it’s there for a very important reason.
the only way this catamaran is coming off the reef is on the next high tide, combined with a power boat pulling him off.
then took Kawamoto-san surfing this afternoon. he was also nervous paddling out to the overhead surf. 61 years old and just retired. welcome back to the surfing world Kawamoto-san!
remember the fish i caught? i was going to sashimi it, but decided to fry it instead. it was my perfect healthy dinner last night. bigger waves tomorrow! can’t wait till the morning comes!
