if you want to score good waves and awesome memories, you have to be spontaneous. mother nature changes every minute so timing is everything. lots of sacrifices but huge rewards. i asked Naoka and Saito-san to come on this trip in just 2 days notice. they came, and mother nature delivered!
we pull up early morning and see some perfect peeling waves everywhere! that’s when my heart starts pumping and face start smiling.
Mori-san is always the early bird. and early birds get the best worms of the day. or in this case, best waves of the day.
Saito-san and Naoka aren’t veteran travelers yet. so i’m teaching them how to be ready every second of the day. if you go on a surf trip with me, you better be ready for everything because things change fast.
and if you’re ready on time, you will experience the best of nature will give. perfect waves at sunrise! just like heaven!
when i left hawaii, i told myself that i don’t need to surf on this trip because i surf way too much. well, i lied. haha.
on the way home, i speared one of these animals. we cleaned it, and took it to the nearby restaurant.
then they made us soup and manapua’s with it! it was so delicious! this is Mori-san’s secret spot. i’ll be here every day on this trip.
all 4 of us had this breakfast each and it was so cheap and delicious.
then went to grab some fruits on the way home.
i came from okinawa yesterday, then was eating okinawan food last night in taiwan. amazing island lifestyle continues.
and with the sea grapes, the orion beer is a must. perfection!
then came home, took a fast shower, and fell asleep like a little baby. our trip is into day 2 and i could honestly say that if i went home today, i would be totally satisfied already.
*by the way, i didn’t kill that animal. it was a joke. haha.
