had a great time in fuji. only spent 5 hours there but lots of waves and lots of memories made. been loving the 5 fin ride. just makes surfing a lot more interesting.
everybody says i’m very lucky. i’ll take it! and this day, i was lucky again because the waves got perfect right when i pulled up.
Naoka is getting better. watching him catch bigger waves and ride it with much more confidence. this wave he caught was pretty dam perfect.
nice bottom turn.
usually Naoka would run me right over because he would look at me, but now he looks down the wave and passes me right by. thank goodness.
Toda-san has so much power. so when he puts his rail in the water on the bottom turn, i know he’s coming for the lip.
this is when all his weight plays a big part in his power surfing. if you see this, get out of the way!
then bam! nice off the lip! power surfing!
Takami-san on the other hand is very smooth. surfing with such grace.
she makes surfing look so dam easy. sweet ride!
nice last wave Takami-san!
i rode my 5’8 this day. can’t really do big turns, but good enough to feel the flow.
thank you guys for the awesome stopover in fuji. it’s always so nice to see you! we scored good waves and had a good time like always. hope to be back there soon.
