Volleyball, Locomoco, Speechless, and Tears.

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went to watch some high school girls volleyball last night. so good to watch team sports. totally different from surfing. haha.
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another perfect day in paradise. nice south swell and everybody so happy.
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Yoshida-san just started surfing. so before we paddled out, i told him “hey, if you want a challenge, lets go to the outside and get some big waves. if you don’t, i’ll take you in the inside and push you like those other schools are doing.” he said “no way, let’s go outside.” then first wave, he catches a big set! rode it all the way in, and was hooked on surfing!
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the perfect smile on the way out! pure stoke!
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Nishio-san already surfs good. he’s a long boarder switching to short boarding. he rode some really good waves today and i could see how stoked he was.
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perfect off the top!
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we surfed for 3 hours catching so many waves. Yoshida-san was so tired that he couldn’t even talk. speechless. haha.
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Nishio-san was tired too but loved the challenge.
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thanks boys! we got some super good waves today! so happy to see you guys catching so many waves. i’m sure you’ll be sleeping very well tonight.
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then went for a nice locomoco for lunch. so good!
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then came home and worked on the buggy again. trying to make it perfect takes a lot of blood, sweat, and tears. oh, and a lot of money too.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide