there are a few things throughout your life that are life changing. Mayuki was definitely life changing for me. she made me happy, she made me lucky, and the coolest thing is, she made hundreds of my friends happy too. a great way to spread the happiness!
the waves yesterday afternoon was absolutely perfect! had so much fun with the girls.
watching them getting better and better. and watching their relationship getting deeper and deeper. that makes me very happy because i taught these girls how to surf from when they were babies.
i knew Aoi was going to be out so i paddled out to surf with him. he had a contest at Queen’s earlier in the day and couldn’t advance out of his heat. i know he was bummed because i know how it feels to lose, especially at Queen’s. on small days like this, Queen’s is small and very weak. in your 15 minute heat, you will be lucky to see 3 waves even break. if you catch one, you advance. if you don’t, you go home. it’s a spot that doesn’t even give you a chance to preform.
so i went out to tell Aoi “hey, shake it off! the contest is done! forget about it! move on!” he starts smiling finally. he starts catching sets finally. and he starts ripping the wave up.
today’s lesson was “always put your board on the rail! if you keep the rail in the water, you will generate speed.” speed just like this! good boy Aoi!
found a new beer. Mirror Pono Pale Ale from tamura’s. i love it! drank a couple last night and felt pretty dam satisfied.
