set out yesterday to surf another secret spot. the conditions couldn’t have been any better! glassy and nice swells out of the west. pulled up and surfed with nobody out again. score!
when there is a big west swell wrap around like this, the normal spots on the south shore are abnormal. yeah, bowls, rock piles, and most other famous spots are not the greatest because of the west angle. then you have other spots that aren’t in guidebooks because it only breaks at times like this. it’s those spots where you can have the time of your life. just like how i did yesterday.
went to look at this $3.5M open house yesterday. it was amazing!
if i had $3.5M, i would have bought it in 5 minutes. then i would have called my friends and had the biggest party ever!
thank you Poiman for sending me this amazing photo from chiba. i can’t believe you surfed it at 0 degrees! you are a hard core surfer and i respect that!
Seth Moniz @ Pipe. i always thought Seth would be the Superkid! he proved me right.
