Smile, You’re on Camera!

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on the best pipe/backdoor day of the year, the contest was on. round 3 at 6-8′ and perfect. Seth Moniz turned in the highest heat score of the day taking down the champ, posting even higher scores than John John Florance.. and round 2 he took down another pipe master Jamie O’Brian. that has had to be the biggest highlight of this young kids life. and the contest isn’t even over yet!
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i seen Seth yesterday and he told me everything that happened in that heat. being the youngest kid of 5, he learned not to back down to anyone. and now that he can score 9’s and 8’s on the highest level of competition, a perfect 10 is right around the corner.
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two kids needed money so they robbed a taxi driver with a gun in honolulu. and guess what? they were caught on camera!
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and now these 2 kids will be spending a lot of time locked up in jail. was it worth the $80 and cell phone they stole from the taxi driver? i don’t think so.
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it was here, then it disappeared, then now it’s back again. the unpredictability of nature. love it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide