decided to surf sunset and full moon tonight so headed to Alica’s to get some local pupus.
everything here is amazing. but my favorite has to be the roast pork.
and the poke too! fresh and made to perfection. want to thank my friend Dion for always taking care of me!
then headed out for our afternoon session. pulled up to a perfect spot again and surfed it with nobody out. can’t tell you were though. haha.
Reid was anchor man and Reid also caught the set of the day. omg, it was the most perfect wave!
then had some pupus and beers out in the sea.
then surfed again at night. it was unbelievably warm! and the waves were absolutely perfect! just rode it by feeling because you could hardly see anything. felt so good until i lost my board when i fell. luckily i found it soon after. next time i surf at night, i’ll wear a leash. haha.
want to congratulate Seth Moniz for winning the Todd Chesser Award. this award goes out to the most outstanding surfer in the pipe contest. the kid deserved this award as he was the Kelly Slater killer! so stoked and so proud! thank you Nao-san for sending me the photo because i don’t have instagram.
