with the right tide, right swell direction, and right winds, you can score the most perfect wave with nobody around. this spot is located 5 miles out to sea somewhere on the east side of the island. nobody knows about it so that’s why nobody goes out there. yesterday, we knew about it and had the time of our lives! that’s what surfing is all about.
then as we came back to waikiki, we seen the most incredible sunset!
followed by the most incredible moon rise. that’s when we decided to surf like teenagers in the middle of the night.
it’s amazing what some crazy people will do to get the shot.
and it’s amazing how some people are so crazy to go swim with the lava flow. something i would probably do too so i shouldn’t say anything. haha.
Russian president just ordered his air force to prepare for “time of war.” that means Russa is on standby mode for war at any time. sounds scary? yes it does!
