another perfect morning surf with Rikita-san. today he wanted to short board so we short boarding. the waves were so beautiful!
it’s unbelievable how good Rikita-san is getting. after all my yelling from the side of the wave, i think he’s getting good because he doesn’t want to be yelled at anymore. haha. i hope he looks at this photo good because if he turned a little earlier, he could have been in that barrel. maybe next time?
we had a long day so this was one of our last waves. went in, jumped in the truck, and headed north.
stopped by my friends glassing factory to see how it’s done here in hawaii. done pretty well.
then pulled up to rocky point and i couldn’t believe how good it was!!! it was perfect!
then went to the billabong house and watched pipe/backdoor/off the wall. Rikita-san didn’t know it, but Taj Burrow was sitting behind him on the porch watching the waves. can you see him?
omg, the waves were so good!!! look at Rikita-san standing front row on the beach probably tripping out! haha.
i wear caps because it protects my face from turning red from the hot sun. and it also protects my eyes from getting sunburnt. without it, i wouldn’t be able to spend 6-8 hours/day in the ocean. so want to thank Rikita-san for the cool caps to add to my collection!
omg, these are limited editions Mt. Fuji designs! i’m so stoked!
went to meet Ayaka-chan. and before i say anything else, i don’t do social media so i don’t know what the heck is going on in this world. one of the reasons is because i like the old style of finding news right from that persons mouth. in this case, i asked Ayaka-chan how she did in the bodyboard contest at pipeline yesterday. she told me “I WON!!!” omg!!!! she won the world bodyboard contest at pipeline!!!! i freaked out! i gave her a big hug, then gave her a high five, and gave her a gun again! i was totally surprised and totally stoked for her! that’s such a huge accomplishment for her bodyboarding career! congratulations Ayaka-chan in your big win! and thank you very much for bringing my Dove wetsuits to hawaii for me. i really appreciate it. keep on surfing your dream!
