Keep Warm, Keep Dove

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woke up this morning and drove down to work on Mayuki. needed to fix things but the sun was blazing hot. looked at the wind and thought i’d check out a secret surf spot before i went to work. pulled up and seen only one guy out! grabbed my board, paddled 40 minutes to the lineup, and found out that one guy was my longtime friend. we took turns surfing the most perfect wave on the island. talked about the good old days, and kept on surfing and surfing. ended up surfing for pretty long and had the feeling of total satisfaction on the long paddle in. score! i’ll take care of Mayuki tomorrow.
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so stoked to get some new Dove Wetsuits! super warm and super perfect for Hawaii. can’t wait to try them out! thank you to all the boys at Dove Wetsuits Japan!
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almost was planning to do an outer island trip. but the big swell put those plans on hold. bummer.
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my nephews aren’t here so they will just have to hear the stories again about the big uhu’s and big kumus!
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and someday Seth will get older and won’t have to sleep in the worst place. haha.
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look at that huge bite in Joshua’s fish. when you dive in the most untouched part of nature, anything can happen. and when it does happen, all you can do is sit back and be amazed.
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sure miss those lobsters! but now i know exactly where to find some. happy dive days coming soon!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide