i was so excited to get barreled today that i woke up at 3:30am. i was out of my house by 4:40am and on my way to the north shore. i knew the waves were going to be about 2-4′ so i only took a small board.
BUT, when i pulled up to Backdoor, i could hear the thundering waves. i could tell it was way bigger than i thought! started to get so excited! it was pitch dark, i was there, so i’m going out anyway. i grabbed my short board, walked on the beach alone, paddled out in pitch dark, i got to the lineup and there were 2 guys out already? what? i was stoked there were 2 others on this island thinking the same thing. haha.
most guys were on their 6’10 guns which was appropriate for the solid 12′ faces. i told myself “ok, my board is way to small. so if you go, just freaking paddle hard and go!” i ended up getting a couple nice barrels and i was so happy! on one wave, i fell in the barrel and the waves pounded me to the reef. it was the closest i’ve come to drowning in a long time. i was held down so long but was just keeping calm. then when i finally came up, another huge wave broke on my head. happened 5 times in a row but i thought, “this is just like free diving.” if i had a bigger board, that wouldn’t’ have happened because i would have made every barrel. i’m still learning.
came in 3 hours later with the sense of total satisfaction. my leg is sore from hitting the reef, i had lots of water in my head, but those wonderful big barrels made up for everything.
waves started to drop as i left. perfect timing!
driving home with my eyes half way closing. came home and took the best nap ever! went to the dentist to get my teeth cleaned, and there went another wonderful day in paradise!
not so paradise for this California Police Officer punching this guy on the ground. i’m sure he will be fired shortly. or maybe not? Police vs. The People. getting nuts each and every day.
