Surf in Peace

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i got up yesterday morning, left in the dark at 5am, then started the 30 minute drive to the beach. it was so quiet and beautiful in the country so absolutely no cars or lights on the one road. i pass through 3 tunnels, went around some hairpin curves, then seen some lights coming straight for me??? he’s coming faster and faster, i’m starting to think “omg, is that guy drunk? why is he driving on the wrong side of the road?” i toot my horn, i flash my lights, then i realized i was driving on the wrong side of the road!!! i turn away right in time and thought that was a very close call. then one minute later i see 2 dots on the street in front of me. i approach it at 80km and then i see a freaking deer looking right into my headlights!!! omg, welcome to the wild Shikoku you freaking stupid foreigner. haha.

Surf in Peace Coffee always shows up to the TSSC contest. i think this is the greatest concept ever!

the guy just pulls up and does everything camping style.

from boiling the water, to grounding the coffee. it was fun to watch although i don’t drink coffee.

and since it was freezing cold, i’m sure everybody warmed up except me.

then the bbq last night was amazing. it’s always amazing!

i just love Japanese bbq’s. so different than Hawaiian ones.

some beers, some laughs, and a very good time in the outdoors. yes, it was freezing cold but the warm hearts made you feel very comfortable.

got up this morning and found out last night was only 3 degrees C. i can’t believe i’m surviving this! i think i’m homesick.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide