gosh, i spent so many hours in the water today!!! super sunburn but super happy too. so everything ok!
after our morning surf, went to eat at Hi Blend and Cafe. super hungry so super happy!
just supporting local businesses. and it’s easy to support something that tastes so good!
i ordered the salmon/bacon sandwich. along with a kale smoothie. so good and so healthy!
then i went to pick up Sato-san. he just came off the airplane this morning from Japan. coming off the airplane and surfing in the afternoon is hard core. and i like hard core! the waves were super good and nobody was out. just us and a couple of other lucky guys surfing head high bowls all to ourselves. nice wave Sato-san!
had some rights too. right when we paddled out, all the locals just went in. and right when we went in, all the locals came back out. that’s what you call “perfect timing!”
thank you Sato-san for the great surf session. keep on surfing and keep on smiling! see you in the water!