nobody would have ever believed me what happened today if i didn’t take photos. i picked up Asayama-san this morning and gave him 2 options. one was to surf waist high onshore Ala Moana. the other was to go to the North Shore and challenge himself. he chose the second, which turned out to be one of the best choices of his surfing life!
i didn’t tell him we were going to surf Pipeline until we got to the North Shore. then he really started to get nervous. haha. i told him “just keep calm and everything will be alright!” so paddling out, he was pretty calm.
then when he seen how hollow the waves were breaking over the shallow reef, he wasn’t so calm anymore. haha. i couldn’t believe how perfect the waves were! and only had a few guys out!
i left my house at 7am and got home just now at 9:30pm. have the full details of our Pipeline/Backdoor session coming up tomorrow. it’s about guts, glory, rivalry, and the ultimate dream. say hello to the new Mr. Pipeline!
on the way back, we were so hungry so ended up at my favorite local spot. it was steak and eggs for us boys!
cheap and delicious. i swore i would never tell anybody where this is. some secrets are best to be left secrets.
and we got the bonus watermelon for free!
then we went for a surf or free dive this evening. no surf in town could have matched out North Shores session so we passed. and free diving would take too much energy which none of us had so we passed. so instead, we drove around and found the perfect sunset setup.
i cut the sashimi from the fish i caught the other day, some poke from Tamura’s, and we had a great time eating and talking about our wonderful day we will never forget.
then the sunset was amazing. it’s unbelievable that i’ve lived in Hawaii my whole life and still can find the most amazing spots like this.
came in at night, said our goodbye’s, and i bet Asayama-san is sleeping like a baby right now. a baby with the biggest smile on his face. tomorrow we have big plans again so better get to bed. goodnight from beautiful Hawaii!
