what makes me the most happy is when surfers improve. Yokomura-san got way better than the last time we surfed 2 years ago. more energetic, more confident, and more happy. i was watching him catch wave after wave after wave.
who says you’re too old to have fun? at 59 years old, Yokomura-san loves to surf more than most kids i know.
this was an amazing South swell. looking like our Summer is going to be a great one!
thank you Yokomura-san! so happy to surf with you this morning. please say hello to Hoshino-san and the boys and girls at North Shore surf shop in Nagoya. you guys are a cool group of surfers!
had the best poke bowl on the island @ Da Hawaiian Poke Company.
then went to pick up Tsuchiyama-san for an amazing afternoon session. no crowds and perfect long rides!
so happy to see my blue friends swimming by me to say hello. gosh, i would love to have them as sashimi! i’ll be going free diving very soon!