the reason why i like surfing in Taiwan so much is because there are so many different waves. waves we don’t have back in Hawaii. so surfing this river mouth is exciting, and surfing beach break is exciting. in fact, very exciting.
Hayato pulling off the floater over the sandbar.
Kimura-san on the takeoff. this spot is so secret that it’s not even on the map.
and after a wonderful surfing day, a cold beer tastes like gold.
and some beef tatami on the side.
with some sashimi that melts in your mouth.
enjoying stories from experienced men from all over the world. this is where i learn things you can’t learn in a school.
i brought one board with me. it was a brand new Matchi shape by TSSC. riding it for the first time here and feeling so free and alive. just another magic board to my collection of magic boards.
i just love to be in the ocean so much that i take a vacation out of the ocean to be in the ocean. it makes me feel free, it makes me feel relaxed, and it makes me feel happy.
been thinking a lot about my life. finding answers to making it easier and happier. when i’m in Hawaii, i usually don’t have the time to think too much. then next thing you know, another year passes by. but when i’m away, deep thoughts run through my mind and i’m finding solutions to unanswered questions. now i’m almost reset and have big plans for the year ahead! can’t wait to get back home.
