gosh, last year’s Philippines trip seemed like decades ago! but i’ll never forget our super lucky special session at some remote spot that nobody’s ever surfed before. if you don’t know, you won’t know right? so we went to find out. and it was crazier than we could ever imagine.
imagine taking 2 long flights, a 10 hour taxi ride, then a 1 hour tricycle ride, and finding this perfect setup. this is not Manila, there are probably gorillas in the back jungle. deep in the Philippines…
my friend Carter and i taking turns on the vertical drops on borrowed boards. haha. look at Carter hanging on for his life.
it’s hard to see how hollow and how shallow this wave is. it breaks on about knee deep water with sharp reef under. one mistake and you could possibly die because the nearest hospital is hours away. just thinking about that made me kind of excited.
i borrowed a board that was way to thin for me. had 3 different fins on, dings everywhere, and no wax. but if there’s a will, there’s a way. found a way to make it work.
next time i want to take my own board and take off deeper in the barrel. and next time i’ll take a first aid kit too.
back to Hawaii. i don’t remember a Summer when the waves have been this small in town for so long. it feels like winter surf. i got to get out of here and look for bigger surf to fill my appetite. i’m starving!!!
