Separate Lives, Separate Barrels

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it’s so crazy busy how these 2 kids are these days. Josh is back from South Africa and leaving for California for the US Open. Seth was somewhere else getting ready for trips of his own. i asked Seth to take a trip with me but he got a slot in the US Open trials so he’s off to California, then to Tahiti for the Billabong Pro. he was actually bummed he couldn’t come with me and i don’t blame him. haha.

Boot Camp day 3 with Dr. Fujimoto-san. another morning of smooth progression. so happy to see the progress!

thank you Dr. Fujimoto-san for the wonderful 3 days of Boot Camp. you did great!

since i love oxtail soup, i tried out another place. it was super delicious!

waves on the South shore have been the smallest i’ve ever seen it in the summer. too small for me to be satisfied so got to get satisfied somewhere else.

and since the 2 typhoons merged together, my friends in Japan are predicting huge waves with excellent conditions on some island. after making some adjustments in my schedule, i decided to jump on a flight and do what i love most, which is to enjoy the ride. and if you ask me where i’m going, i still don’t know. but hopefully when i wake up tomorrow morning, i’ll be in a beautiful barrel. hope to see you there!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide