Lion: Lost and Found

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want to thank Kimura-san for letting me use his huge van. the perfect surf car indeed!

i loaded up my boards and equipment. lots of room left for more boards and more people.

Matchi heading out for a surf. it’s pretty crazy when you think about all this being manmade.

always the best quality surfboards.

Kesuke getting ready to add come art to art.

getting the ferry back from Shikoku to Wakayama is pretty easy.

just drive right up with your car.

then drive right in.

park the car and go inside to the cool air conditioner. take a nap, do yoga, talk story, and relax.

if it wasn’t for this kinkan, i wouldn’t be able to sleep at all. so many sea lice bites all over my body! itchy!!!

then driving right off the ferry to Wakayama.

straight to Marutaya for the best Wakayama ramen.

did you hear about the boarder patrol police making this Mexican kid drink what he tried to smuggle in to the United States? it happened to be liquid drugs and the kid died shortly after. omg!

i haven’t watched a movie in a long time. so on the flight over, i watched the movie called “Lion.” omg, it’s a must see movie. a true story which is very heartbreaking and inspirational. so good that i will watch it again.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide