Surfing is First, Everything comes After…

201

Christian told me he bodyboarded in Japan before so he wanted to try surfing next. right when he jumped on the board, he was super stoked. so excited paddling out into the lineup.

we started off with a few waves in the inside. i told him “once you can ride these in here and not fall off, you’ll be ready for some big ones on the outside.” he said “ok, thank you.” haha. Christian was so well mannered and a fine young gentlemen.

then we went to the outside and Christian caught all the sets! wave after wave and perfect ride after perfect ride. he was so stoked!

i’m sure this kid is hooked on surfing because he said he will surf again when he goes back to Japan.

good job Christian. keep on surfing and keep on being a fine young man. i was really impressed with your manners.

the only thing that really bummed me out was having my gopro stolen with the Aida-san kids photos on it. thank goodness Paul was shooting that day and caught the action that was stolen from me. i got the DVD but guess what? my new computer has no DVD drive??? how am i supposed to upload the photos???

was going to call my Apple Genius Nao-san but she’s too busy surfing with Matsuo-san. haha. small world filled with wonderful people!!! surfing is first, everything comes after…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide