Oku-san is back from last year and is surfing so much better. cool Chiba surfer that just wants to get better and better.
i was stoked to see him get some of the best waves of the day. this one was perfect!
off the top by Oku-san!
happy rides equals happy smiles.
i just love my swallow tails recently!
thank you Oku-san for the great surfing and lunch. i was so happy when you recommended Asahi Grill’s Oxtail soup. it’s been a while so it brought back all the tasty memories!
seen a very unique tattoo on this girl surfing. it was written in a different language so i couldn’t figure it out. so i just asked what it was. she told me it means “Not All Who Wander Are Lost.” wow! that is so cool! one of the coolest phrases i’ve heard in a long time. reminds me of myself when i was backpacking the world. i was always wandering, but never lost… and i still wander…
