i couldn’t believe how big and barreling the waves were this morning. nobody expected this size and it was cool because of the strong off shore winds. seen so many empty barrels today!
i picked up Inoue-san and told him, “be ready because it’s giant!” just to get out past the lineup today was a challenge in itself. but we made it out first try. lucky!
then i seen a big set coming in from the horizon. i yelled “GO!!!” Inoue-san turned around, paddled, and took off on a big one!
i’m sure his adrenaline was rushing because he hasn’t been surfing much. he’s only been boat surfing in the calm Lake Biwako. i told him, “the lake don’t move, the ocean does, especially today!” haha.
i couldn’t see once he took off but he actually made the late drop! i was so stoked to see that!
and Inoue-san was stoked too! today will make him a stronger man than he already is.
caught our last wave in and i can say that Inoue-san overcame a huge challenge in his life today. he was calm, he was determined, and he did it. all it takes is one wave to change your life.
seen this Japanese girl get a super good wave out there. in fact, she was the only one out with us.
thank you Inoue-san. see you tomorrow for another big wave challenge. i’m sure you will be sleeping well tonight.
-came home and spent 5 hours cleaning my house and throwing a lot of things away. one step closer to my simple lifestyle…
