had an amazing turkey day. surfed some good waves with Takahashi-san. perfect glassy conditions and nobody out. scored! then headed North.
super stoked to see Shun Murakami surfing so good in the contest today in Taiwan. waves looked super fun and i’m looking forward to surfing there again soon. in fact, i was searching for a trip before my next trip and Taiwan is looking super good for that.
pulled up the Billabong house on the North Shore in the afternoon. took me 45 minutes from my house to Pipeline. i must have been really hungry! check out the new smoker they just got. Micah was cooking 2 huge turkeys in this.
this is how it looked when it came out. it was the juiciest turkey i ate in my whole life.
Tony trimming the turkey. i was standing by him talking story and sampling the juicy turkey.
my sister and friends were cooking and preparing from 8am this morning. it’s hard work to feed 40 hungry surfers. but she pulled it off.
couple more photos i took of the dolphins the other day. i’m sure they will be back soon.
huge school over the very shallow reef. so peaceful watching them swim around.