Wild @ Sea

230

i was surfing with Abe-san when we saw 5 Japanese beginner surfers paddle out. the wind was very strong off shore so it kept on taking them out to sea. i kept an eye on them but really didn’t want to paddle that far out to get them. they were way past the buoys and finally, my friend tells me “aren’t you going to go get them?” i looked at her and said “you go.” haha. i paddled out and they had no idea where they were. i said “look how far you guys are from the beach. are you ok?” they said “yes, we are playing surfing.” what??? i said “no, there is no surfing out here, you go in now. start paddling in before you get run over by a boat.”

so they started paddling back in. i could tell they thought i was bothering them or something. but no, i just don’t want something bad to happen to Japanese, especially if i can prevent it.

one guy couldn’t even paddle. look at the red buoy. that’s pretty far out considering the winds were 40mph off shore. a scary thought.

anyway, strong winds, bad conditions, and nothing happening in Hawaii for the next few days so went straight to the airport and took my seat.

omg, when i saw the ice cream cart coming, i got so happy!

custom ice cream and hot milk tea. after this, i closed my eyes and fell into the deepest sleep.

then woke up in Osaka and freaked out when i went to the immigration counter and seen 200 Chinese tourists in line. omg! not again!

but anythings worth the wait when you know you’re driving straight to Ushio. Master made the 10 hour trip well worth it. i left there feeling like a king! thank you guys for the wonderful night in Wakayama!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide