it’s crazy how much the beach is eroding! i couldn’t believe what i saw at Laniakea.
i’ve been surfing here for over 30 years and never seen this reef before! the sand that usually covered this is all gone!
the waves were kind of big today but “if you don’t go, you won’t know.” my crew was kind of nervous. haha. and i made them even more nervous by telling them there was a high surf advisory.
some guys getting barreled and i was getting jealous. haha.
Nao-san’s been surfing for only 2 years and now she’s short boarding the North Shore. wow!
Asayama-san got the biggest wave of his life. overhead and barreling! he came back out with the biggest smile of his life!
survivors. i have lots of respect for people that challenge themselves. it was freaking rough out there today!
no nerves as we made it safely back to the car. only happy faces and lifetime memories.
it was hulihuli chicken day! yeah!
omg, my favorite and only $9.
after lunch, Nao-san paddled out to Haleiwa and rode 2 waves on her own. i couldn’t believe how much energy she had. like a little kid! haha.
according to Nao-san’s Apple Watch, her 3rd wave was ridden at 9:45am. she rode it for 29 seconds, top speed at 23.3 KM/H, and distance of 144.9 Meters. omg, that’s the longest wave of the day!
