spent Christmas afternoon surfing with Shiho-chan. Super Model and Super Cool girl!
she’s learning the cross step. getting better and better each time!
spent Christmas night eating beef tongue stew. Super Tender and Super Delicious!
pulled up to the beach with Asayama-san and Nao-san this morning. went to catch some super fun waves before they flew back to Japan. another uncrowded and magical session! where is everyone???
driving through Waikiki this afternoon watching all the poor tourists dodging the rain.
flooding everywhere! i never seen it like this in years!
even my house was flooding. it was like a river coming down my street.
want to thank Nao-san for the wonderful gifts!
yup, you can call me the Crazy One. haha.
while town was storming and ugly, North Shore was clean and beautiful. i think i’m going to treat myself to an epic private session tomorrow! can’t wait!
