today was a very rare morning i had off. last night i told myself “stay home and rest.” but this morning, i woke up, borrowed my nephews toy, and went out to have a great time! and a great time i had! why do these things cost so dam much??? i want my own!
dropped the anchor and paddled out to Three’s. super crowded and i felt very unwelcomed. i was getting the stink eye from everyone. absolutely no aloha. but i don’t care, all i wanted to do was ride a freaking wave! i was thinking to myself that everybody better stay away from me because i was like a very dangerous beginner with a very dangerous toy. haha.
then came in and picked up this cutest girl named Lina-chan. only 11 years old and surfing for her first time. this was her very first wave!
and the smile was so amazing. super quiet girl but when she surfed, she had this glowing smile.
she ended up catching waves on her own. so many waves and so many good rides.
i love what i do. just to see a little girl enjoying surfing so much makes me so happy.
good job Lina-chan. keep on surfing!
