i don’t know how normal people spend their new years, but this is how i spend mine. first, i refuse to work on this day because it’s like my only day off. so it’s my time!
there is no way in the world i’m going to miss the first sunrise. i don’t like to surf with people on the first season of the year, i just want to be in the empty ocean and connect with nature. so driving to my secret spot is like driving to Disneyland.
i get out, ride some perfect empty waves, and when the golden sun popped up from the ocean, i felt a chill going through my body. i felt like a kid riding Splash Mountain for the first time. i wanted more!
then go home and it’s still 8am. perfect time for my traditional mochi soup.
then my nephew Micah calls me for a foil session. sounds like a good idea! i rode some waves still learning. then after my 8th wave, i started to feel confident. so i tried to do an off the lip, then i fell down as the board was coming up.
i felt like Mike Tyson punched me in the chin!!!! shit, blood! shit, stitches!!!
i drive to the emergency room. the doctor sees me and says “welcome back.” haha.
i told him again “hey Doc, i have to surf tomorrow so do what’s best for me.” he said “yeah, i know, so i’ll just glue you up and you’re good to go.” now i’m good to go.
why go to a firework show when i can just look out my window and have the best show in the world. local style…
Today news: can you believe that Recreational Marijuana just got legalized in California???? that means anybody can go buy it and smoke it! i hope that never happens in Hawaii.
as of today, the minimum wage goes up to $10.10/hour. still not enough…
did you know a lady surfer got bit in the leg by a shark yesterday at Laniakea? yeah, it’s probably one of those sharks thats feeding off that dead whale. it’s not the best time to be surfing out there now.
