if you knew where to look today, you would have found a perfect little peak to surf. Koguma-san and i paddled out the right time as all the boys came in from their morning session.
i try to teach people how to do a carve, but today i’ll let Koguma-san teach you. bottom turn, be confident, cool, look forward, and keep your knees bent.
then turn up the face half way and start to twist your body the opposite direction.
then keep your eyes and right left arm right where you want to finish the turn, which is behind you. make sure your knees are still bent.
then push hard with your back foot and that’s where the spray will come from.
then spray me in the face, realign, and get ready for another bottom turn. perfect turn Koguma-san.
went to get a nice bowl of oxtail soup after.
it was the perfect meal after the perfect surf. thank you Koguma-san for the happy morning!
then went to research some secret places. i thought i knew a lot about Hawaii, but not after today.
i was extra happy this morning because Koguma-san is now wearing Dove Wetsuits! keep warm forever…
then took this young 15 year old surfing for day 2 Boot Camp. she did terrific!
then took the Kanauji-san family to my other world.
they were stoked, so was i. more photos coming tomorrow.
drove home looking at the sky thinking to myself “wow, Hawaii is a cool place. i love it!” i left home at 7am, and came back at 7pm. what an amazing day!
