we paddled out right after 8am. and paddled in right before 12pm. that’s almost 4 hours of endless surfing with Kobayashi-san.
i think he must have caught 30 waves because every set that came in, he was on.
i had to catch a few to keep warm because i’m from Hawaii, not Hokkaido like him.
when i surfed with Kobayashi-san last year, we made some minor adjustments. in that year, he must have been practicing because he was surfing 10x better. progress makes me very happy.
great job! i’m super proud of you!
a quite and peaceful living room deep in Manoa.
some juicy kalbi ribs deep in Palolo.
thank you Nao-san for the memory of this exciting hunting day. seems like years ago.
Matsu is the kind of guy everybody gets along with. from old guys like Kimura-san, to young guys like Aoi. haha, just joking Kimura-san. anyway, Matsu was taking some photos of Aoi and giving him some tips at night.
it’s good to get tips from somebody so patient and calm. totally opposite of me. haha.
after our last meal at Kansai airport, we said bye to Matsu. right when Matsu went down the escalator, Aoi turned to me and said “Matsu is a really nice guy.” yeah, he sure is.
and Matsu is also a great photographer too. capturing the moment of the cutback, while i’m watching from behind making sure it’s perfect. and yeah, this is a pretty perfect cutback! i’m already thinking about going back to Taiwan very soon…
