welcome back blue sky! omg, today was like Summer! hot sun, warm water, and South swell! i surfed for over 7 hours today and i’m totally red right now!
started off in the morning with Yamaguchi-san. super cool guy with a super cool style.
waves finally up again. it’s been a very long time for everybody so Ala Moana was pretty crowded this morning.
i love looking at the bottom turn and watching the barrel like this.
great job today Yamaguchi-san! so happy you’re surfing so good. get ready for another surf session next week…
the post surfing pho was amazing!
then went back out right after lunch with Tomami-san. the waves were pretty dam big but Tomami-san’s always up for the challenge.
already sunburnt but went to look at Diamond Head. overhead perfect waves and super good conditions. grabbed the foil and surfed with my foil buddies. so happy i can catch sets now! that was my dream. over 60 guys out today so it wasn’t the safest day to be at Diamond Head.
thank you Yumie-chan for the gifts!
this book is the cutest book i’ve ever seen it’s Yumie-chan story i highly recommend you get one before they are all gone.
FIND OUT TO GET A COPY ON GO-NAMINORI.COM…
